shopped for a crankshaft through them as well, since mine is pretty much "junk."
Tranny should be done with in a week.
1/21/05 Picked up the freshly rebuilt transmission from Shepherd Racing. Looks
great check out the pictures below. John Shepherd told me it looked like
someone drove the car without a clutch for about 10,000 miles so I ended up
needing all new gears. 1st and 5th were good used ones he had he put in, 2nd
they always replace and put double synchronizers in, 3rd and 4th were also
brand new. New bearings,new seals, all kinds of new goodies, should be ready
to take some abuse when the Talon is ready to leave the garage. I also bought
a used crankshaft he had that was damn near perfect. I will need to get bearings
for it probably Clevites, and have the rods checked out and probably machined
so that any damage they may have taken when the bearing spun is taken care
of.
Tranny after Shepherd
Rebuild.
Tranny before (YUCK!)
read), a complete gasket set from a local foreign auto store, an oil pump from the
same, the balance shaft elimination parts from Mitsubishi (will post the part #'s once
I get them from Shepherd), and ARP studs for the whole engine from Summit
Racing, hopefully within the next week or so. Then the real rebuilding can begin.
and repairs just haven't had time to update the site so here is
the first part) Ended up with OEM Rings, OEM pistons and wrist
pins. Had to find a good set of used rods and have them
machined and magna fluxed. The wrist pins on my old pistons
were a little frozen up. Story Motors in Massilon, Ohio who does
a lot of John Shepherds machining did the work. Magnafluxing is
vital to a rebuild, it allows tiny cracks to be located before a part
is machined and assembled so it can be set aside and not used.
Nothing like throwing a rod threw the side of your new block!
The images above are what happens when you try to reuse
bolts and are even careful and use a torque wrench set to the
correct torque. This bolt went into the side of the block to hold
the front case/ oil pump on it was the last bolt to be tighted and
snapped about 3/4 of the way tight.. I got lucky very lucky and
was able to remove the bolt with an "easy-out."
forward. In order to remove the cam
shaft gears from the camshafts to
replace the seal I had to use two 4 foot
long pieces of pipe attached to an
adjustable wrench on the camshaft and
a regular metric wrench (forget the size)
on the bolt itself. It will make a loud pop
and sound like you broke the camshaft..
you didn't its just that tight. If you have
air tools it might be easier.
transfer case will all go in as one
piece. However I would be very
careful with the transfer case as it
kind of hangs out there. (ask me
how I know check the picture to the
left below the engine) Also make
sure the driveshafts are out of the
car. And finally when you lower
the engine in with the hoist, drop
the rear in first and secure it with a
bolt then guide and lower the front
into place and then get the side
mounts. That was easiest for me.
cover trying to install your engine and
drivetrain. Mitsu sells the piece. I spent
like $15 for mine. Forget the part number
if you need it email it to me. I can see if I
can find it.
