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| DSM Exhausts |
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| Phantom Knock has to be about one of the most annoying problems that can plaque DSM cars. I had a pretty bad case of it, I knew what was causing it so the Phantom was not that mysterious. A bad exhaust leak or two. My flex section was cooked. Solution: a new 2.5" to 3" Road Race Engineering down pipe to custom 3" Catback! I went with the RRE pipe because I liked the 2.5" first section it helps to make clearance around the front of the block a little better with the oil filter and oil pan. |
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| I ordered a 3" flange from RRE when I purchased my downpipe. The original plan was to have a local muffler shop fabricate it for me. They have always done good cheap work in the past for me using mandrel bends. I told them that I wanted a 3" catback on my AWD Talon they said "It can't be done!! Thats too large we have tried it before and cannot make it fit!" I explained that I had pictures for an example and seen several cars with the systems myself. They basically were not interested. Found a place that would do it but the quote was $370 (I could buy a good quality aftermarket one polished and TIG welded out of stainless for around that price!) Well I know how to weld. Summit Racing is about 25 minutes from my house, they carry pre-bent mandrels for about $20 a piece why not give it a shot. I asked to borrow the shop from my old boss threw the Talon up on the lift and went to work. Basically I used: -1 section of 3" Summit Racing straight Alumized tube (they come in 4 foot sections) -1 180 degree 3" Mandrel bend 6" radius from Summit - a Dynomax 18" body resonator (glass pack) perforated core is best (louvered core is restrictive!) - A Magna -Flow straight through 3" muffler center/ offset 18" body |
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| Basically I just took the extra flange bolted it up. Tack welded the resonator directly to that at a slight angle. Next I welded a piece of straight to that. Then i cut the 180 degree bend down the middle of the "U" so I had two "J"s Just look at the picture from here. I made the hangers out of 1/2" diameter steel bar stock. After initial fitting I welded it solid and test drove it. Finally I pulled the system down and painted it with VHT exhaust paint (shown in bare metal no pictures of VHT paint) |
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| I am very pleased with the sound. I was afraid that it would be too loud. I am trying to build as balanced of a car as I can. Being my daily driver a really annoying exhaust tone would have been a problem. This system is aggressive sounding, but by no means is it annoying at least to me. On the highway it can get a little buzzy but thats kind of the nature of high revving 4 cylinders from my experience. It does not attract much attention at all. One problem that most will have after installing this exhaust is the same problem I had! BOOST CREEP! Now if you have plenty of fuel this is not a problem, but I am running the stock system so at high RPMS the boost can bet a little carried away at 17-18PSI on 14B. The solution to this is to port the turbine inlet so that it is a more direct path to the wastegate. I have not done it yet. I just stay out of the upper RPM range and full throttle for now.. (it has been snowing every other day since I put this system on so full throttle at 5500 RPM really is not needed) On that note the system and VHT paint seems to be holding up well to the tons of salt that get dumped on Ohio roads during the winter.. Only time will tell more. I will post Gtech results from the upgrade soon.. But basically a combination of eliminating Phantom knock, adding a 3" exhaust, and boost creep with colder weather has combined to give me about 35 more horsepower and 15 more Ft-lbs. Not bad! If you have a DSM with a performance exhaust on it and you have a sound clip either video or sound file send it to me at ahaidet@gmail.com I will be compiling a page of DSM exhaust clip sounds to help people looking to buy/ build an exhaust for there cars. Send pictures and a brief description of the system and other mods you have on the car, any time slip or dynosheets info would be good as well. Thanks. |
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